NYFW Recap: Spring/Summer 2016

Among all the collections at New York Fashion Week, which ran Sept. 10-17, there was a strong dose of fall’s darker hues. Black and white played against each other many times during the week. The iconic styles of the 70s and 90s were in full swing, with A-line silhouettes and high necklines dominating.

Here are The Daily Californian’s picks of the five best New York Fashion Week collections, all flattering female and male forms. Some are overwhelming, some are underwhelming, but all of them are exciting samples of the busiest week on earth!

This collection held just a tint of the Spanish influences that trended at NYFW, such as in the white long-sleeved chiffon blouse under a champagne-colored velvety sheath dress pictured above. Lam took inspiration from Nina Simone, the jazz and soul musician from the 50s and 60s and the subject of a recent Netflix documentary. Lam once again mixed feminine with edgy, producing a hard-to-define collection of A-line midi-length dresses and bell-sleeve accents. There’s really only one thing to say about this collection: Simply beautiful.

Naeem Khan

Out of a sea of dark palettes and mind-numbing professional looks came this multi-colored gem pictured above. Naeem Khan’s opening look boasted a chiffon robe beautifully embroidered in flower patterns and colors of red, blue and yellow. A similarly colored mini-dress added depth underneath. Long embroidered gloves covered the forearms up to the elbow. The collection followed through, with dresses of other lengths and cuts in varying embroidery designs. A floor-length sheath dress with pink lace designs could go down the red carpet easily. This startling collection will set your heart on fire.

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Givenchy

This collection is notable not only for its clothes but the atmosphere. Designer Riccardo Tisci built the set to look like a Brazilian Favela, and the show spent some time contemplating the loss of 9/11, the 14th anniversary of which the show fell on. One of the first shows of the week, Tisci’s shows set the tone that was to follow at other shows throughout the week: Lots of lace, white dresses and white lace dresses. The collection delicately presented lace camisoles paired with black pants.

Karen Walker

Walker’s spring 2016 collection line was pragmatic, if not quirky. The most exciting part of Walker’s collection were the pops of gold sprinkled throughout. A gold knee-length skirt opened the show and a gold-strapped tank top and pants followed. With Walker, the devil was in the details; pictured above is a plain, white, ribbed sweater that is tucked into a shiny, gray knee-length skirt, which is subtlety cut out just below the thigh. Walker made drab, everyday colors a little more interesting through cut and fabric.

Creatures of the Wind

Leave it to designers Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier to give the grandma look a hard-core edge. The duo took the disarrayed grandma theme trending this fall and ran with it for the spring 2016 collection. The collection’s characteristic look is exemplified by the gilded bronze skirt and lace shirt under a short-sleeved top with large, printed flowers pictured above. Despite its preference toward the oldest woman in your life, the collection still exuded youthful charm with a thinly strapped little black dress with a gray floral scarf trailing behind. Overall, think lots of mix-and-match print schemes and floral everywhere. Oh, and you can’t forget the fishnet stockings.

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Fall fashion

After the hottest summer in  decades, the idea of layering on some cozy fall fashions — or any fashions, really — is a welcome thought.

And this fall is a particularly good time to invest in some new pieces. Fashion is becoming less about trends and more about individuality, so the items you buy this year are more likely to endure beyond spring.

Rather than two or three major themes dominating fall fashion, this year there are dozens of prominent styles. Here are 15 to mix and match — all of which have timeless elements with modern twists.

DRESSES

Sweater dress. If you’ve hung on to your ’90s sweater dresses, pull them out — it’s a resurgent and versatile look for fall. Those old-school fitted cable knits are hot again, as are modern looser cuts, like on the Achro Side Slit Sweater Dress ($139 at Pipe & Row, Fremont). Layer it with an anorak or take advantage of the slit to wear it over pants — another big trend for fall.

Shirtdress. Always a classic, the shirtdress gets longer for autumn, and edgier with bold floral or graphic prints. The Adam Lippes for Target Shirtdress in Painterly Black Plaid ($50 at target.com) has an abstract plaid print and looks chic over wide-leg trousers or tights and booties. The designer collaboration is available starting Sept. 27.

Mod dress. An example of how diverse fashion is becoming is that ’60s mod, ’70s boho and ’90s grunge are all making an equally strong resurgence in the same season. If you favor the sleek simplicity of mod looks, check out the Judith and Charles Bowie Dress ($850 at judithandcharles.com). Its perfect cut is enhanced by ultra-soft suede fabric — a luxe fall trend.

TOPS

Flannel shirt. Flannels are everywhere, in cotton, wool, even silk. The boyfriend fit dominates, but for something unique and fashion-forward, consider the Silvae Lempicka Blouse ($254 at silvae.co). The Seattle designer’s interpretation has a cropped, boxy cut that elevates the look into high fashion.

Victorian blouse. Get a little goth with a high-neck, lace-accented blouse for fall, such as the Zara Top with Crochet Bib Front ($100). The sheer black piece goes perfectly with the high-waist trousers and pencil skirts also trending for autumn.

Tie-neck blouse. Designers have tried to bring back the tie-neck blouse a few times — but this fall it seems they’ve finally gotten the proportions right. Case in point is the Frame Le Silk Bow-Tie Shirt ($268 at saksfifthavenue.com) that is sweet without becoming saccharine and professional without becoming dowdy.

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Chunky-knit sweater. Cable-knit and loose-weave sweaters are cozy, versatile and everywhere for fall. The fit is relaxed, but not as oversized as in the ’90s. Try Banana Republic’s Fisherman Stitch Pullover ($79.50), available in gray or taupe, with chic cropped sleeves. Pair it with a turtleneck and miniskirt to get a modern-mod look, or a head scarf and wide-leg trousers for more of a boho feel.

Blanket coat. Ponchos and wraps in wool blends have a ’70s vibe, but simple styling keeps them from looking costumey. The Madewell Blanket Cape ($148) has subtle colorblocking in shades of gray or brown to create a go-with-anything piece.

Long line blazer. It’s easy to overlook minimalism when fringe and flannel are back on the menu, but sleek, simple looks are also hot for fall. A long, lean blazer, such as the White House Black Market Long Drapey Jacket (on sale for $70), can be worn open to add a layer of interest to a monochromatic outfit or cinched to frame a tie-neck blouse.

BOTTOMS

High-waist pants. Legs have loosened and muffin-tops banished as jeans swing back to a ’70s-inspired silhouette. Try local brand Prairie Underground’s Tusk Jean ($211 at prairieunderground.com) for the elongating, tummy-flattening look in organic cotton with a bit of stretch.

Wide-leg trousers. Pair a high waist with a wide leg for a chic (and flattering) menswear-inspired style. Look for a pair in wool, tweed or herringbone, such as the Zara Herringbone Trousers ($100), and tuck a turtleneck or slim sweater into the high waist for a modern, effortless outfit.

Midi skirt. The midi skirt continues its reign as length-of-choice, often with a high waist and slim cut for an extra-long pencil-skirt effect. Or make a statement with a full skirt in a bold print, such as the Kate Spade New York Woodland Plaid Midi Skirt ($368 at Nordstrom). If one print is dominant this fall, it’s buffalo check, and Kate Spade’s interpretation of the print is an instant classic.

BAGS & BOOTS

Fringe handbag. If you’re looking for a fall statement piece, take a look at Alice Noon’s Molly Bag($1,100 at alicenoon.com). The locally made stunner features 9 feet of hand-cut, double-sided fringe that provides incredible movement while remaining chic and sophisticated.

Patent-leather shoes. Glossy patent leather is hot, but can easily skew “little girl.” The Shoes of Prey Patent Leather Oxford Bootie ($209 at Nordstrom) counters any chance of that with a menswear influence and an edgy, on-trend stacked heal. The style adds a sizzle to a sweater dress or a layer of texture to a monochromatic look.

Refined combat boot. Pull out your broken-in Dr. Martens and rock them with anything from cropped jeans to a midi pencil skirt. Or invest in a new pair with a refined look, such as the P.Monjo Lace-Up Boot ($475 at Burnt Sugar, Fremont). The dark-brown leather boot’s streamlined shape takes it out of Courtney Love territory when paired with lighter-weight dresses.

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