Alber Elbaz’s Exit From Lanvin Adds to Upheaval in Fashion Industry

The shows must go on.

But after three surprise exits recently by fashion designers from some of the most powerful brands in the luxury industry, the question arises: Is this upheaval bad for business, or is bad business behind the turmoil?

On Wednesday, Alber Elbaz, creative director of the French fashion house Lanvin, announced he had been fired. Six days earlier, Raf Simons announced he was leaving Christian Dior. And only a few weeks ago, Alexander Wang had his final show for Balenciaga, before heading off to focus on his own brand.

It is probably too early to judge the financial fallout from these departures, and each case has its own particulars. But analysts are wondering if the brand loyalty that might help prompt someone to pay $10,000 for a Lanvin gown or $2,500 for a Balenciaga bag is damaged when the creator walks out — or is pushed.

Thomas Chauvet, a luxury analyst at Citigroup, says an answer lies partly in a shifting dynamic between the boardroom and the design studio, and the longstanding partnership model between the two that has traditionally underpinned the business.

“The times of star designers are long gone — we know they come and go and are possibly less loyal to the fashion houses than in the past,” he said.

“What matters most now is the brand name and DNA,” Mr. Chauvet continued. “The role of the designer is to interpret and support the brand’s heritage in a contemporary and commercially successful way.”

In the case of Mr. Elbaz, growth at Lanvin had begun to falter in recent seasons, after nearly a decade of strengthening sales and efforts at international expansion under his creative direction.

“Today the house of Lanvin ended its collaboration with Alber Elbaz,” the privately owned group announced from Paris late Wednesday, merely confirming the flood of rumors on Twitter. “We would like to thank him for the chapter he has written in our 125 year history,” Lanvin said.

Earlier in the day, Mr. Elbaz, the Israeli designer who owns a 10 percent stake in the company, had scooped his employer with his own public statement. He said his abrupt departure after 14 years at the oldest surviving French fashion house had been “the decision of the company’s majority shareholder,” Shaw-Lan Wang, a publishing magnate from Taiwan, who was among those who bought Lanvin from L’Oréal in 2001.

“I wish the house the future it deserves among the best French luxury brands, and hope that it finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward,” Mr. Elbaz said in his statement, hinting at internal discord at Lanvin over how to navigate an increasingly competitive marketplace.

Last year, Lanvin had estimated revenue of about $321 million, but according to people close to the group who were not authorized to speak publicly, that figure is expected to fall this year to around $221 million. Lanvin’s wholesale partners, which account for 70 percent of sales of the brand, had apparently been hit hard by flagging Asian enthusiasm for luxury goods, currency headwinds and geopolitical instability that have plagued much of the fashion industry.

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“It is crucial that management of a brand adjust the business model to the growth needs of the company as it evolves, especially when it comes to the balance between wholesale and retail — and that did not happen at Lanvin,” said Ralph Toledano, president of the French fashion industry association with the ornate name of Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. Mr. Toledano took Mr. Elbaz to Paris as the designer of Guy Laroche in 1996. (Mr. Toledano was Laroche’s chief executive at the time.)

Mr. Toledano was referring to what he said he believed was a lack of support on the corporate side of the fashion house. “It requires real investment, and understanding of the positioning, which in this case is that of a very, very special maison,” he said.

The surging production demands placed on 21st-century designers by luxury-brand executives looking for greater sales growth are immense. The intensity of the workload has been widely cited as a factor in all three of the recent designer-auteur exits.

Mr. Simons’s collections appeared to perform well in the market. For the fiscal year that ended June 30, revenue at Christian Dior Couture was up 18 percent, to €1.77 billion.

But at Balenciaga, the sluggish sales of Mr. Wang’s designs were rumored, but never confirmed, as being part of the reason he and the parent company, Kering, agreed in late July that he would leave.

Given that none of the owners of the three brands in question break out the profits or losses of the individual businesses in their luxury portfolios, it is hard to measure the contribution of a designer’s vision to the bottom line.

The turnover has not gone unnoticed by retailers and buyers in the industry, even if some of them see no cause for panic.

“There has been considerable reshuffling over the past few seasons, but to us it feels like part of a natural cycle rather than volatility,” said Natalie Kingham, buying director at the British luxury e-commerce group MatchesFashion.com.

“The strength in the way we buy is that we can be fluid and adapt with a change in creative direction,” Ms. Kingham said. “Our role is to work with the designer to understand their new brand vision and communicate it across all our platforms so a brand can continue to engage and excite the customer.”

But another retailer who spoke only on the condition of anonymity because she sells many of the brands involved was less assured. “Why do people covet Chanel or Comme des Garçons? The brands send a consistent message about what they are and what they stand for,” she said. “If you are going to invest, you invest in that. Even if you don’t like a collection or a season, you can’t deny the purity of the message. All these changes means fashion doesn’t feel pure any more. What do you say to the women?”

Mr. Chauvet of Citigroup added that there were inevitable risks around the considerable investments made by a parent group to a brand when a designer leaves.

“There can be some business disruption, particularly between the moment of the departure of a designer and the arrival of a new one,” he said. “You will usually have to clear some of the old collection’s inventories and might suffer from a lack of novelty until the new designer launches his first collection, which can disrupt sales for six to 12 months.”

While Mr. Elbaz held his position at Lanvin for 14 years — long enough to ride out various fluctuations in its fortunes — Mr. Simons and Mr. Wang lasted just three years at their posts. The two had only a fleeting time to imprint their own distinct visions on the fashion houses.

Different as the circumstances might be, the three departures in such a short time might indicate that now more than ever, it is the business managers who determine how fashion is created — and by whom.

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What Not to Miss at This Year’s Fashion Week San Antonio

Since 2012, Tony Harris has been the local face of Fashion Week, taking the reigns as producer of the annual weeklong event after Fashion Group International disbanded; it’s easy to wonder whether he’s grown weary of the gig.

Harris, however, swears his excitement hasn’t waned. ”I tell people all of the time, it’s really a brand new experience for me every single year because our programming gets bigger, the participants and sponsors and support that we have get so much bigger,” he explains.

And it’s true, the week’s international roster keeps growing, with shows from Colombia-based Jorge Duque Velez, Mexico-based Alexia Ulibarri, and Demestiks New York’s Reuben Reuel (whose demand recently skyrocketed following a shoot where Beyoncé and Solange Knowles wore his garments); Fashion Week San Antonio (FWSA) marks the U.S. premiere for Velez and Ulibarri, and the San Antonio premiere for Reuel.

Acting as the sole curator of the young festival (”It’s very important for me to streamline a process that gives focus to what fashion is really about”), Harris prides himself on his balance of both local and outside designers that capture the unique spirit of San Antonio; but, of course there is bound to be a certain degree of personal subjectivity to his process.

Following a social media outcry over his omission of local designer Leighton W. Couture, Harris stood by his program. He emphasizes, ”When we developed Fashion Week San Antonio, it was all about recognizing the local talent and the local industry as a whole. The strategy first and foremost is to really recognize talent locally that is worthy of recognition.”

Moda Next designers Christian Alonzo, Tessa Guerra, Joey Ramirez, Bruno Horwath, Blanquita Sullivan and Valerie Perez - COURTESY

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The following are a few hometown highlights, many of which can be found inside Texas A&M–San Antonio’s Centro de Artes, known during FWSA as Showspace.

DIA DE LOS MUERTOS MASQUERADE BALL: #FWSA Kick-Off

Pull the sugar skulls out of your closet and kick off FWSA in high fashion. ”Last year we were very impressed with how many people just got it beyond right with how far they went out for these garments, and I’m excited to see what they’re going to come up with this year,” says Harris. And as always, these threads count, with prizes awarded to the top three best-dressed attendees. The night includes the reading of the FWSA’s official proclamation by Mayor Ivy Taylor, complimentary cocktails courtesy of El Jimador Tequila, and nonstop sounds by DJ Jarvis.

ANGELINA MATA

With a focus on contemporary feminine design and high-end bespoke garments, self-taught designer Angelina Mata is a mainstay in the San Antonio fashion industry. ”I get humbled every time I speak with her, because as an artist she just blows me away. When we talk, I think, who thinks of these things? Who thinks of this?,” exclaims Harris, who at the time of our meeting, had not seen Mata’s new collection. ”And Angelina would probably like it that way,” he laughs.

Mata hints that the line will focus on geometry and juxtaposition with a ready-to-wear sensibility. ”This season we’re looking to Japonism and pulling references from that. Embracing traditional tropes of femininity, adding elements that are contemporary, familiar and bold,” she explains.

ARTE OF FASHION GALLERY

Now in its second year, the Arte of Fashion Gallery gives artists the chance to develop visual art with a sartorial flair. The exhibit marks the beginning of what Harris hopes will be a long, exciting artistic partnership with contemporary artist Cruz Ortiz. Also featuring Estela Aguirre from Mexico, the gallery celebrates the intersection of fashion and art for a good cause. Thirty percent of the proceeds from each sale will benefit Girls Inc., the official charity of FWSA 2015.

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